Tajao, The New Los Abrigos in South Tenerife

Mon, December 3rd, 2012 - By Linda

“Have you tried the new Los Abrigos?” a colleague asked a couple of years back.

I was lamenting the changes to the fishing village of that name.
Don’t get me wrong, Los Abrigos is a delight, and I’d recommend almost every restaurant there. It’s just that in the years I’ve lived here I’ve seen it change from a handful of houses and restaurants at the end of a bumpy road, to a smart village, well-visited by tourists in the know, and that has lead to development of modern apartment blocks. It will never be a resort in the same way that Playa de las Americas or even Los Cristianos is, and it still has a tranquil vibe, but I liked the way it was.

 

Tajao

 

“No,” I replied.

“You must try it,” my friend enthused. Trouble was he couldn’t remember the name, “It’s further up the autopista, towards Santa Cruz,” was the nearest he could come. He thought it might be La Caleta, but wasn’t sure. La Caleta in Spanish means ‘cove’ and it’s a popular name. The best-known being the village at the end of Costa Adeje – also famous for its restaurants!

It took me three attempts before I found the right place, but I have to admit that it was worth the wait, and my high expectations were eventually fulfilled.

 

Tajao

 

The name of the village is Tajao, and it’s in the municipality of Arico, about eight minutes past the Reina Sofia airport. It’s signposted on the autopista, two minutes drive on a good road over scrubland and you’re there. Whilst there are some new apartments, they don’t intrude on the original dwellings which cluster around the harbour.

It’s tiny, more of a hamlet even than a village, and the restaurants are not neatly lined up along the harbour side, apart from a couple of them you have to take a look down the side streets, or even follow your nose to the source of that delicious fried fishy aroma. They still offer lapas (limpets) and escaldón ( a dip made from gofio), which have disappeared from the menus of other places favoured by north Europeans, in favour of good, but more familiar fish and seafood.

 

Seafood at Tajao

 

I’m not saying that you won’t hear other languages spoken, because it’s popular with residents of all nationalities, but you will find few tourists down here. The best-known restaurant, El Rocá, sits overlooking the thoroughfare which runs from harbour to beach, and is the place where you’re most likely to find ex-pats and swallows. The food is cooked to order, after being chosen personally by you from their fridge. Fish and seafood accompanied by the simplest of salads and, of course, papas arrugadas and mojos. Fresh and natural, a meal there will set you back between €15 and €20 depending on your taste in wine, but you will find cheaper in the less imposing bars and restaurants on the side streets.

Tajao harbour

 

Before or after eating, take a stroll along the pretty beach and around the harbour, where the working fishing boats bob. It’s just enough to compliment the meal and give you a glimpse into a more authentic side of Tenerife.

Posted : Monday, December 3rd, 2012 at 11:15 am
Category : about tenerife
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2 Responses to “Tajao, The New Los Abrigos in South Tenerife”

  1. Great post, Linda. Sounds like north-coast Gran Canaria.

  2. Linda says:

    Thanks, Matthew. One of the most peaceful places I know on the island, and only a few minutes from all the well-known holiday spots!

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