I wrote once about my favourite island trip, the one I always take visiting friends on. I’m doing this more and more, as friends have taken to cruising, and stop off in Santa Cruz.
It traverses the “backbone” of Tenerife; we begin at Los Rodeos Airport, wind dappled forests before emerging onto the sparse, dramatic landscape of Izaña, below the observatories. Along the way, glimpses of Gran Canaria on one side of the island, and La Palma to the other. We then cross the Teide National Park. The return route depends on what time they have to return to the ship. Favourites are Candelaria or Puerto de Guimar.
A trip to the National Park is offered as an excursion by cruise lines, so obviously I like to do something different. Good local dining is an obvious choice, but my problem has been finding a typical, good Canarian restaurant. The roadside offerings in the National Park are very mediocre, and often busy.
I now have a solution, with slight re-routing so as not to retrace our steps too much. After the National Park, we stop off for a late, leisurely lunch in Rincon Gomero.
If I hadn’t been taken by a La Laguna local to this restaurant, I don’t think I would have found it. It’s close to the main road, but hidden away in a kind of small, modern housing estate. Taking the Esperanza road, passing the airport on the right, you come to a service station, opposite there is a narrow road, take it. Keep to the right, because there is a fork, and you will find Rincon Gomero.
Founded by a family from neighbouring island, La Gomera, it is very typically Canarian when you enter, with pictures of old time village life, and farm implements decorating the walls; sturdy, pine tables and chairs, wooden beams and paper table cloths.
This is local dining at its best. At 1pm, when it opens, it’s quiet, but before long you realize that a low buzz of animated chatter is bouncing off the walls, as it fills up with Laguñeros taking their three hour lunch. There are as many suits as jeans dotted around the 80-seater dining room. The staff whizz pleasantly and attentively around.
The menu, only in Spanish (I’ve never heard another language spoken here) displays the dishes I always expect, carne fiesta, rabbit, various fish dishes, though most with a signature twist of the house. The escaldón (a sort of dip made with gofio) is drizzled with aromatic green mojo, aubergine comes stuffed with a herby minced meat, or with a mixture of seafood and fish.
Being Gomeran of course, they know a thing or two about almogrote. This cheese “spread” can be powerful, and not to all tastes, but I happily introduced it to friends last week, knowing it is simple and not over strong. They adored it. Hit of that, particular meal, however was the filo pastry filled with juicy prawns and fresh veggies. Not a traditional recipe, but great, local ingredients.
I have to “fess up,” in closing and tell you that I can’t give you an opinion on Rincon Gomero’s desserts, because I have, simply, never had room for one, but they sound delicious! One day perhaps I will forgo my craving for escaldón and remember to leave room for pudding!
Rincon Gomero, Calle Rodeo Alto 18, Carretera la Esperanza Km 2 (TF 24) La Laguna; (+34) 922 31 23 27; open Wednesday through Saturday, from 1pm to 4.30pm and 8pm to 11pm, Tuesday from 1pm to 4.30pm; a recent meal for 3 where we shared various dishes and an excellent bottle of local wine came to around €60, but to be honest, we over-ordered for that!
Category : food and drink
Subscribe : RSS 2.0