Jutting out on the north east corner of Tenerife, Anaga rural park is often overlooked by explorers. Maybe it’s thought of as being just a bit too far out but now a new sea taxi and excursion service is showing people just how much they have been missing.
Nautica Nivaria have a 12 seater motor boat based half way between Santa Cruz and the large modern beach of Las Teresitas and they are ferrying walkers to two pick up points at Playa de Antequera and Roque Bermejo. Divers can explore some largely untouched waters complete with sunken ships, and towering rock formations and small unspoilt caves and coves not visible from land that are now gaining a new legion of admirers.
The sturdy Valiant V750 RIB bounced over the swell of the waves as myself and four other passengers left the dock for the open sea. Captain Luciano steered us through the ever changing half dozen oil tankers that regularly moor off Las Teresitas, the fishing hamlet of San Andres was clinging its way up the hillside and the sun was popping in and out of patchy cloud.
Playa de Las Gaviotas was the first secluded small beach we could see, favoured by nudists it seemed to be left mainly to the gulls to enjoy this time. Puertito de Igueste looked remote in the cleft of the rocks, no wonder this area is rife with legends of treasure hidden in small caves by pirates. Unlike the waters of Los Gigantes, Costa Adeje, and Los Cristianos there were hardly any other boats around, as the familiar outline of the Santa Cruz Auditorium was obscured by another series of basalt stacks, the vastness of the ocean made it slightly eerie.
High up on the cliff we could just make out the remains of Semaforo, an old signaling station built in 1895 by Hamilton & Co from Glasgow, it was in use until 1971, makes you quite proud of British workmanship. The first optional stopping point is Punta de Antequera, we moved in close enough to see the dark sand beach and not much else, a basic stone mooring point was the only concession to comfort but then that’s one of the attractions of Anaga.
Each headland we rounded brought new pleasures with the spray and roll of the ocean adding to the ride. Roque Bermejo loomed into sight like a bold statement, the sea lapped over the base as it stood guard to an even smaller bay. There was one lone couple on the beach and a very steep looking path leading up the hillside, the four walkers took careful steps up the weather beaten mooring block to begin their exploration. Most of the Anaga routes are long circular or return walks of six to eight hours due to the dead end of the sea, the new taxi can half that making it more attractive to less experienced walkers.
My trip back was equally enjoyable and we moored up in the dock two hours after setting off. What a perfect excuse to dig out some route guides and contemplate unlocking the secrets of Anaga.
Nautica Nivaria, Darsena Pesquero Sector 5, Cueva Bermeja, Santa Cruz; tel (0034) 697 271 850; a three hour coastal tour costs 35 euros, return trips to pick up points 30 euros, one way pick ups 25 euros; reduced rates for children and residents.
Category : days out
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