Exploring Tenerife’s Rugged Anaga Mountains

Wed, May 22nd, 2013 - By Jack Montgomery

The first time we set foot in the Anaga Mountains in the far north east of Tenerife we were totally blown away. The rugged terrain of proud peaks, emerald slopes and a scattering of tiny hamlets didn’t fit in with the picture of Tenerife that had been fed to us by various print and TV media sources.


Anaga Mountains, Tenerife

It’s like taking a huge step back in time to an era when Playa de las Américas and Costa Adeje simply didn’t exist and Los Cristianos was populated by a handful of peasant fishermen.

The curse and the blessing of the Anaga Mountains is that they require a bit of effort to get to, unless you happen to be in Santa Cruz or La Laguna.

The closest resort is Puerto de la Cruz. Even from there, travelling to the heart of the Anagas can take an hour.

From the southern resorts it’s a lot longer and from places like Los Gigantes and Playa de la Arena in the far southwest, it’s a case of crossing from the most westerly point to the most easterly one.

However, it is worth the effort. To explore them there’s a number of options.

By Coach
Coach excursions cross from the best looking beach on Tenerife at Las Teresitas to the fish restaurants on the coast below the lovely little town of Taganana before driving along the spine of the mountains which offers camera-exploding vistas.

The good thing is that you can sit back and enjoy the scenery without the need to concentrate on negotiating narrow mountain roads. The downside is the big buses are limited regarding where they can get to. So you miss out a lot of the best parts.


Playa de las Teresitas, Tenerife

By Car
Driving gives you the freedom to get to Anaga treats like the troglodyte village with a cave restaurant at Chinamada, or to the very end of Tenerife’s road at Chamorga where there’s a mini drago forest. The pros of driving are that you can go just about anywhere and stop whenever you want – like that quaint roadside restaurant with chunky fillets roasting on a drum barbecue. The cons are that negotiating narrow, winding mountain roads can be hard work for the driver.

By Foot
The best way is by foot. A network of trails link villages and there’s a sense of experiencing the mountains in the way the local people have been doing for centuries. The benefits are you see incredible sights that are impossible to get to any other way. The downside is that without route directions it’s easy to go wrong. The Anaga Mountains are untamed and can be unforgiving; a couple of years ago, a family from nearby La Laguna were lost in there for two days… and they were just trying to find the beach.


Fishing Village, Taganana, Tenerife

Whichever way you choose, the reward is to experience a very special and beautiful part of Tenerife.

Every so often you’ll hear someone proclaim that La Gomera is like Tenerife was before mass tourism. The people who say that have clearly never visited the Anagas.

Posted : Wednesday, May 22nd, 2013 at 10:00 am
Category : about tenerife
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