Creative cuisine is not something I normally associate with Garachico, or Isla Baja in general. There are decent traditional Canarian restaurants in the historic town on Tenerife’s north west coast, but they don’t often anything different from what I can get in scores of restaurants close to where I live between Puerto de la Cruz and La Orotava.
On my last visit, I discovered things had changed. In the Mirador de Garachico the town at last might just have a restaurant to match the style and flair of its beautiful boutique hotels the San Roque and Quinta Roja.
Located in a street behind the Hotel Quinta Roja, the restaurant has three dining areas; a romantically cosy and traditionally designed room at the rear of the restaurant, a light and airy conservatory, and a small dining area with contemporary rattan furnishings beside the blue-slate bar.
Stepping inside the Mirador de Garachico it immediately looks and feels different from its peers. This is confirmed by a menu which features dishes that have some of the usual local suspects (sea bass, cod, steaks, meatballs) but whose pairings stray from the normally good but unadventurous path. So the sea bass lies on a bed of prawns, mushrooms, dried fruits and spinach and the meatballs are served in a sweet and sour ginger salsa (winner of the best tapas in Garachico competition in 2013).
It’s a mouthwatering selection that had us struggling to choose what we wanted. The situation was complicated further when we finally decided on two starters and two mains and the waiter advised us that selection would be too much as the portions were big. It was extremely honest and helpful advise, but it did mean more difficult choices.
In the end we opted to share bacon and leek rolls in a smoked cheese sauce followed by medallions of pork with tortilla wedges, passion fruit sauce and sautéed vegetables.
For dessert we parted company with Andy being seduced by their version of a ‘piña colada’ – pineapple sorbet with coconut sorbet whilst I went for the ‘traditional with a twist’ gofio pie; gofio mousse on a biscuit base with banana and ice cream.
For anyone who hasn’t tried gofio, this dessert would be a great intro; although it might be a bit misleading regarding what gofio normally tastes like.
Even the complimentary ‘chupitos’ that you get often get at the end of a meal in Tenerife were different than usual; no honey rum or banana liqueur here, instead you get potent passion fruit.
For the lot, with a bottle of Tajinaste red wine and a large bottle of water, the bill came to just under €50. It’s not the cheapest restaurant in Garachico, but it stands apart in terms of quality, creativity and ambition.
It’s also extremely friendly. How many places try to talk you out of spending more money in their restaurant?
Mirador de Garachico, Calle Francisco Martínez de Fuentes, 17, Garachico; (0034) 922 83 11 98; open Mon-Sat 8am-11pm, closed Sunday.
Category : food and drink
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