Walking across the malpais (badlands) from the San Miguel Marina in Golf del Sur, and heading towards the coast, we reached a small stone wall at the base of the volcanic cone known as Montaña Amarilla. Stepping over it and onto the path, instead of ascending to the summit, we began to circumnavigate the mountain and found ourselves alongside a derelict, eyesore of a building that would look more at home in inner city Britain than in Tenerife. What’s more, there appeared to be people living in it. I couldn’t help wondering what the estate agent’s blurb must have said…’needs a little TLC’ perhaps?
But as we rounded the corner of the mountain to arrive at the sea, my eyes saw another side to Costa del Silencio. At the top of the rocks was a small bar that looked as if it had decided that being a garden shed was simply not in its blood and had bought itself a cane roof and relocated to the seaside where it now stood, bathed in glorious sunshine, looking out across the ocean. I’d like to tell you what it’s name is but I have no idea. Presumably it wishes to remain anonymous in case a group of garden gnomes whose shed has gone missing, come looking for it.
Alongside the shed/bar and scattered across a series of platforms that follow the contours of the solidified lava, little groups of seating called passers-by to sit awhile, enjoy the view and take some refreshment. Many had already answered the call.
As we emerged fully from behind the mountain, I saw what it was that held the gaze of those who had already given in to the chill out – the beautiful, golden cliff face of Montaña Amarilla. Formed from the continual erosion by wind and sea on the volcanic cone revealing fossilised sand dunes, the resultant layers have formed shelves which are the perfect sunbathing spot, sheltered from the prevailing breeze. Just around the corner, out of sight of the chill out bar, sunbathers take advantage of the seclusion to acquire an all over tan.
Taking a seat alongside the serving hatch, as we’re only at the beginning of a planned day of walking, we order coffees rather than alcohol. A little notice warns us that coffee is of the sachet variety so café con leche is a non-starter and cappuccino prevails instead. Around us, our fellow chillers are not so constrained by the day’s planned activities and are predominantly enjoying beers and mojitos.
It may only have been sachet coffee, but sitting there in the sun, staring at the extraordinary rock formations and listening to the laid back melodies of Latino jazz funk, it was perfect. I could happily have given up on the day’s plans, slipped off the hiking boots and settled in to a day of chilling out on the rocks.
Of course, you can just drive through Costa del Silencio, along Calle Montaña Amarilla, park up and wander over to the bar but you won’t enjoy your beer nearly so much as you will if you follow the coastal path from the marina in Golf del Sur.
The menu is limited to drinks and ices only, except on Saturdays and Sundays when the barbecue is lit and you can have brochetas (mini kebabs).
Category : beaches
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